CAPSTONE
Una Ida que no quiere Vuelta…
(A departure that wants no return...)
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An excerpt about a girl who falls in love with a country, its people, food, traditions, and culture as she studies vueltas, or the influences of the U.S. on Spain.
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Written by Keysa Garcia
a student of the Florida International University Honors College Spain Study-Abroad Summer 2019 Program with professor John William Bailly
PROLOGUE
Growing up in a family that courageously lives by the phrase, “You learn more abroad than in a day at school” is what has inspired me to travel across the world and immerse myself in a different culture while living like a local. Over the past 20 years, I’ve experienced and gained many life skills that will undoubtedly enrich my future self and career goals, and even though I’ll be forever grateful for the opportunity to travel to new places with my family, seeing the beauty of Spain through the eyes of professor John W. Bailly is something one must experience to truly admire.
CHAPTER 1: WHERE IT ALL STARTED
The Park of the Pleasant Retreat does not sound as beautiful as hearing a madrileño/madrileña roll their r’s as they talk about El Parque del Buen Retiro. The park is filled with several monuments that not only serve to add beauty but also enrich the park’s history.
La Fuente de los Galápagos, or the Galápagos Fountain, is located to the north of the park by Salamanca, and it honors the first anniversary of the birth of Princess Isabella (who later became Queen Isabella II), as commissioned by Ferdinand VII. The fountain's origin is the Red de San Luis. In 1879, the fountain was relocated to the Glorieta de Nicaragua inside El Parque del Buen Retiro, adjacent to a big lake where one can rent a paddleboat and admire the beautiful greenery of the park. The fountain features animals, humans, and fictional characters such as fairies, dolphins, and turtles that contribute to the fountain’s story. One can easily spot the dolphins on the statue being ridden by children who symbolize intelligence, prudence, and wisdom. The fountain's fictional characters include three fairies who represent good wishes towards the future queen. As a local or tourist, one is automatically drawn to the water that represents the source of all life, but one cannot ignore the one color that stands out above the rest, the green of the Galapagos turtle, as it represents the queen’s longevity and that of her reign.
Located at an ominous 666 meters above sea level, La Fuente del Angel Caído, or The Fountain of the Fallen Angel, sits in the midst of El Parque del Buen Retiro. The statue that crowns the fountain was sculpted in 1877 by Ricardo Bellver, who was inspired by John Milton’s Paradise Lost, and became the first-prize winner at Las Exposiciones Nacionales de Bellas Artes. In 1878, however, the original plaster sculpture was destroyed and recreated in Bronze to be a part of the Exposition Universelle, which accepted only bronze or marble works.
Featuring one of the only prominent sculptures of the devil —actually, more like his origin story— the fountain attracts many onlookers and is a source of local pride. Public admiration of Satan has also made its way to the Americas, as many individuals since the creation of this sculpture are no longer afraid to show their admiration for the fallen angel himself! Examples of this in the U.S. include the Church of Satan located in San Francisco, CA, and The Satanic Temple with 18 chapters located throughout the United States.
El Parque del Buen Retiro may feature many beautiful and historical monuments, and landscapes that will make you fall in love with the place, but there’s nothing more astonishing than El Palacio de Cristal, or The Glass Palace. It was designed by Ricardo Velazquez Bosco in 1887 for the Phillipines Exhibition at the then-Spanish colonial possesion, and is one of the most intricate iron works in Madrid, inspired by Paxton’s Crystal Palace.
Being inside El Palacio de Cristal truly made me feel like I was in a fairy-tale movie scene, and the warm Madrid sun shining through the glass and hitting my skin was remarkable. Nothing that I’d ever seen back in the U.S. compared to it, NOT EVEN seeing Cinderella’s Castle at Walt Disney World for the first time as a child!
There’s something for everyone at El Parque del Buen Retiro, whether it’s working out, going on a slow walk, taking a nap, rowing a boat, or just enjoying the greenery and historical features that reside within.
CHAPTER 2: THE MIDST OF IT ALL
Walking through the streets of Seville —which I will refer to by its proper name Sevilla from this point forward— took me back to the times I’d been to both Cuba and Puerto Rico to see where my parents had grown up and where my mom had lived after her childhood years in Boston. But the deepest footprint of this Spanish city is found in Puerto Rico’s El Viejo San Juan, or Old San Juan, where my mom moved in pursuit of a career in jewelry making when she was 25. What is now present-day Sevilla used to be known as Italica, the birthplace of the Roman Emperors, founded in the early 200 BC.
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​​This was a very obvious vuelta, and I could clearly see the early architectural influences of Spain in the Americas as I walked through Seville and remembered how similar the streets are in El Viejo San Juan, Puerto Rico.
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The city of Sevilla did much more than simply remind me of previous trips to Cuba and Puerto Rico. It also took me “back home,” so to speak, with small comforts found in a little store located on Calle Francos, 12: The Taste of America. Yes, you read that right. America! Kraft Mac & Cheese for 8 euros and a Twinkies for 1,80 may seem outrageous, but trust me when I tell you that a little taste of home is a welcome thing when so far away. That, and I truly missed the taste of artificial cheese.
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But my search for comfort food didn’t begin and end in Sevilla. It was a daily endeavor while on the trip. I regularly ate at American fast-food chains (a vuelta I knew I’d encounter, but didn’t think I’d take part in). In Miami, my trips to Taco Bell only took place when craving late-night munchies after a night out, but in Sevilla, tacos and burritos slowly replaced paella and tapas dinners. We were in awe of not only how differently our tacos tasted, but really got a kick out of the Spanish street music that could be heard inside our “American” restaurant. But it wasn’t until we hit McDonald’s that Spain and the U.S. fully intertwined on the menu of the quintessential, all-American fast-food chain with… the McCroqueta.
CHAPTER 3: ONE LAST DANCE
Barcelona, the city that truly took my heart... a city that not only taught me how to love, live in the moment, party until the sun rises and not stay indoors playing cards, but helped me believe that the most amazing things in life are those that are unexpected.
Pacha. The Coconut Club. Espit Chupitos. El Bombón. Opium. Club Catwalk.
The nightlife in Barcelona was nothing like what I’d experienced in Brickell or Wynwood. The music, the people, even the drinks seemed different. The nights I spent out and about on the streets of Sant Martí and Barceloneta are the nights I will cherish the most.
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When comparing the nightlife of Spain to that of Miami, many differences are easy to spot. To begin with, the departure time. In Miami, it doesn’t matter if you’re going to Miami Beach, Wynwood, Brickell, or Downtown, if you’re a member of my generation, you’ll more likely leave your house between the hours of 10:30-11:30pm. In Spain, all partying locations are closed at that time, and most of them open at 12:00am, or even at 1:00am. Yet, if this were the case in Miami, it would not only give us time to play several rounds of card games first, but it would eventually prevent us from going out as the crime rate in the United States is much higher than the crime rate in Spain.
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When it comes to partying on a budget, Spain is it. After converting expenses (Uber/taxi, cover fee, and drinks) from euros to dollars, the difference in the price tag is hard to miss. For example, the most I paid for a cover fee in Spain was 20 euros (roughly $23), and that included a drink. In the United States, a cover charge will run you about $20, and drinks range from $15 to $25. And let’s not forget about the $40 Uber rides! Lastly, the vibe in Spanish clubs is much more relaxed and fun. Everyone is out and about living their life to the fullest without a care in the world as opposed to club goers in Miami seem much more stressed and on edge.
Dear Spain, I cannot thank you enough for the unforgettable memories, and can’t wait until we meet again. I remain ready for an ida, and seriously doubt I’ll want to come back de vuelta. Gracias por todo.
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Atentamente,
Keysa Garcia